Fall in love with Fall: A trip to New Hampshire

Fall is in full effect and our travel guru Michelle Newman took a trip to New Hampshire . Find out about all the great things you can see on this fall tour.

“FALL” IN LOVE WITH NEW HAMPSHIRE

By Michelle Newman

Just about anytime is a great time of year to visit New Hampshire, especially in the fall when the countryside is ablaze in glorious color. The small state is often overlooked and neglected and unfairly has taken a backseat to Maine and Vermont for serious leaf-peeping. New Hampshire has everything a visitor could want - ranging from mountains, lakes, covered bridges, skiing, farm stands, back country roads, fine handcrafts, colonial architecture, coastal beaches and tons of history. I spent over a week exploring around the “Granite State” and these are some of my favorite spots that I discovered and want to share.

MANCHESTER

Manchester is the birthplace of America’s Industrial Revolution which began in the 1830s. Miles and miles of red brick factories were built alongside of the mighty Merrimack River, which provided power for textile mills, shoe factories and tanneries. Factories produced 470 miles of fabric a day! Nearby, three and four story buildings were constructed to provide housing for thousands of factory workers. Baseball teams, marching bands, orchestras, theatre groups were formed while schools, playgrounds and community gardens were built for the workers by the affluent factory owners. Many workers were recruited off of farms from Quebec and Montreal and other areas of French Canada. This began a major migration movement and a population shift into the bigger cities leaving rural life behind. Irish immigrants escaping the Potato Famine, arrived in hordes to begin a new life with the promise of a better future. This fascinating migration story is well documented at the Millyard Museum housed in one of the preserved mill buildings.

Large mansions were built in Manchester’s North End by wealthy factory owners and businessmen. If you’re an architecture lover, you’ll enjoy a drive through this posh neighborhood and drool over the magnificent mansions. These historic beauties still stand today and serve as a reminder of Manchester’s enormous wealth in the 19th century.

After touring the North End, architecture aficionados will want to book a tour to see the only house in New England that is designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and open to the public. The Currier Museum of Art gives ninety minute tours of the Zimmerman House. The “Usonian House,” built in1951, is in pristine condition with many of its original furnishings and appliances still intact. After the tour, enjoy a quick lunch (homemade soups, salads & sandwiches) in the Winter Garden Cafe, the museum’s onsite cafe.

The museum’s collections constitute the most comprehensive holdings of fine art and decorative artist in the state. It houses an important collection of American art from the colonial period to the present; a substantial representation of European painting from the 14th through the 20th centuries; and a significant collection of regional artists of national and international importance. Of special note is the museum’s impressive paperweight collection which includes nearly 400 outstanding examples from the major French and American glass houses. Also noteworthy is the collection of fine American furniture dating from the 17th to the 19th century.

GOOD EATS:

Waterworks Cafe - The popular cafe, located in the Millyard, serves up great soups and sandwiches especially the steak and cheese sandwich topped with caramelized onions. Their Hungarian mushroom soup is out of this world. Don’t even think about leaving without splurging on one of their Gourmet Whoopie Pies (chocolate, red velvet & pumpkin).

Cotton - Also located in the Millyard offers upscale dining and takes pride in using seasonal ingredients from local farms. Favorites include award-winning Steak Diane and Sweet and Spicy Popcorn Shrimp. The tempura-battered shrimp, one of the signature dishes, is served in a real popcorn box with a pungent sweet & sour dipping sauce. The Retro Meatloaf comes with all-you-can-eat mashed potatoes and smothered in a port and mushroom sauce. Save some room for the killer Apple crisp cheesecake.

Red Arrow Diner - This institution is open 24/7 and is rated as one of the top 10 diners in the nation. It’s also a must-stop on the presidential campaign trail. The diner is Adam Sandler’s favorite hangout when he’s in town visiting family and friends. The diner’s food and pies are exceptional. Portions are gigantic, so bring a hearty appetite along. You can sit in the Trump booth, or if you’re a Democrat, the Obama and Clinton seats at the counter. You can’t go wrong with anything on their menu - it’s all made from scratch and delicious comfort food. Take your pick - from their killer pies to lasagna, American Chop Suey, or the “Stan the Man Breakfast,” (named after Adam Sandler’s dad.) You’ll probably recognize many of the famous folks and politicians whose photos are plastered over all the walls.

WHERE TO STAY:

Ash Street Inn Bed & Breakfast - This Victorian beauty was built as a wedding gift for a wealthy mill owner’s son in 1885. Guests can linger by the cozy fireplace or relax on the large wrap-around porch. Innkeeper Rob Wezwick, who is also a trained chef, spoils guests with his made-from-scratch pumpkin pancakes for breakfast.

DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown is conveniently located in the heart of downtown close to the Millyard Museum and other attractions. The Sunday Brunch features delicious blintzes. Request a room facing the Millyard and the mountains for a million dollar view.

FOR MORE INFO:

http://www.manchester-chamber.org/manchester/visit/

CONCORD

Although the capital city of New Hampshire is small, it packs a big punch. Main Street is a class act lined with elegant historic red brick buildings many of which are accented with crisp white trim. The street is a hub of activity for shopping and dining, or just strolling down the wide street and soaking in the vibrant art scene. Creativity flows through Concord’s downtown with Art on Main program showcasing murals, outdoor sculptures and art installations.

Main Street is a great place to get your retail therapy fix. Viking House offers an interesting array of imported specialty food items, clothing, accessories and candy from Northern Europe. Licorice lovers will be delighted with the large selection of imported licorice. Next door, Gondwana & Divine Clothing, an upscale woman’s boutique, is known for their stylish, chic contemporary designer clothing and accessories at reasonable prices. Visit the League of New Hampshire Craftsmen, a prestigious gallery, representing over 300 artists with a vast selection of fine crafts including hand painted silk, wood, metal, jewelry, ceramics, fibers, and glass. Stroll by Cobblestone Design Company and be awed by the florist’s breathtaking window displays, or better yet, drop into the shop and admire their exquisite floral arrangements. Although independently owned and operated bookstores are a dying breed and it’s nearly impossible to find one these days - you won’t have to look any further, because right here on Main Street, you can spend hours browsing in Gibson’s Bookstore & Cafe. Cigar aficionados will discover tobacco nirvana in Castro’s Back Room. The spacious tobacco shop offers over 800 types of cigars and 300 brands and is the ultimate man cave.

History buffs can take a free 30-minute narrated tour of the New Hampshire State House given by volunteers. If you’re lucky, you may even be able to get your photo taken sitting in the governor’s chair in the Executive Council Chamber.

The State House, built with New Hampshire granite, was built between 1816 and 1819. The House Chamber houses the largest state legislative body in the nation with 400 members. Many original furnishings, historic commemorative flags and paintings are on display here. And who isn’t impressed by this stately granite building with a gilded dome?

For more architectural eye candy, take a walk, or drive around downtown Concord where every nook and cranny is filled with historic buildings. You’ll be impressed by the city’s encyclopedic array of stunning architecture represented here including Queen Ann, Victorian, Colonial and Federal, just to name a few. Be sure to see The Centennial Hotel which was built in as a home for Civil War widows needing assistance.

GOOD EATS:

Concord has some of the best culinary offerings in the entire state. The Barley House, located directly across from the State House, is a popular hangout that attracts locals along with many presidential candidates on their tour through the state. The food is phenomenal here - favorites include Smithwick’s Curry Fish & Chips, and the popular Pumpkin Apple Bisque which is served year round.

The award winning Granite Restaurant located in the historic Centennial House is known for fine dining and seasonal cuisine with nearly everything being made in house. Signature dishes include pan seared duck, bronzed sea scallops and port braised short ribs. Top this off with a warm apple tart with carmel sauce, creme brûlée or a chocolate truffle for dessert.

WHERE TO STAY:

The Hotel Concord, conveniently located in the heart of the city right on Main Street is a AAA 4-Diamond rated hotel. The intimate boutique hotel has all of the amenities to make your stay relaxing and comfortable. The low key sophisticated, contemporary decor complements the casual welcoming vibe. A full complementary breakfast is served served with egg sandwiches & fresh baked goods from a local bakery.

https://www.hotelconcordnh.com/

https://www.visitconcord-nh.com

LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE

Take a relaxing cruise on Lake Winnipesaukee aboard the legendary MS Mount Washington, an icon since 1872. On the 2.5 hour cruise, passengers will learn everything they could ever want to know about the state’s largest lake covering 72 square miles, with over 180 miles of mainland shoreline and a maximum depth of over 200 feet. The name Winnipesaukee, is of Native American origin and has two possible translations, “smile of the great spirit” and “beautiful water in a high place.” Out of the lake’s 365 islands, only 240 are habitable and access to many of the islands is only by boat. In addition to passengers soaking in the stunning scenery, and learning about the history and highlights of the lake, they can enjoy hot buttered lobster rolls with a cup of “chowda” in the onboard cafe.

https://cruisenh.com

MOUNT WASHINGTON

Take a ride to the summit of Mount Washington on the Mount Washington Cog Railway, also known as the Cog. This was the world's first mountain-climbing cog railway built in 1869 and celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. Think of The Cog as being the Concorde supersonic jetliner of its day. This was such a big deal and mega event that President Ulysses S. Grant brought his family here when it first opened. The railway is still in operation using a Marsh rack system and both steam and biodiesel-powered locomotives to carry tourists to the top of the mountain. Either way you’ll chug along through four different climate zones to reach the summit which stands at 6,288 feet and is the highest point in the Northeast. Hold on, because at times you’ll be riding at 30 degree inclines! Don’t expect pristine weather at the summit - which is known to be home of the world’s worst weather. Three weather systems converge here, and even in the summer, you can experience hurricane force winds. Bring lots of layers and be prepared to be blown away. On a clear day, you’ll be treated to spectacular panoramic views and can see the states of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts and New York from the summit as well as Quebec Province in Canada. There’s a small but informative museum at the base, and at the summit, explore the Mt. Washington Observatory’s Extreme Weather Museum.

WHERE TO STAY:

The Omni Mount Washington Resort, built in 1902, one of America’s premiere “Grand Hotels” and a National Historic Landmark is packed with history. Over the decades, numerous U.S. presidents have stayed here. In 1944, the hotel hosted the International Monetary Conference with delegates from 44 nations convening and establishing the World Bank and International Monetary Fund.

Nestled in the White Mountains, the resort’s magnificent landscaped grounds include horse stables, 2 golf courses, tennis courts, swimming pools and hiking trails. Guest are treated to complimentary historic walking tours showcasing the hotel’s impressive history and fine architectural details.

The main dining room continues a long standing tradition of fine dining in an elegant, Old World setting. Think Great Gatsby and the Guilded Age. Guests dine beneath a large rotunda accented with stunning Tiffany-type stained glass and over-sized picture windows with stunning vistas of Mt. Washington and the Presidential Range. Only the freshest seasonal ingredients are used and many of the menu offerings have classic French undertones. My favorites are the jumbo seared sea scallops and Stewed NH Mushrooms accented with puff pastry and sherry cream sauce for starters; followed by the rich and creamy Shrimp Scampi with papparelle pasta; and for dessert, a culinary throwback from an other era - Baked Alaska, made with maple walnut ice cream. For a more casual pub setting, try Stickney’s Restaurant and order the decadently rich Lobster Mac and cheese. For an irresistible afternoon snack, drop into Morsels and indulge in a scrumptious slice of pumpkin cheesecake topped with whipped cream. After dinner, swing by The Cave, a former speakeasy from prohibition days. The dark atmospheric ambiance gives it sort of a sinister feel, but that’s OK, it adds to the whole experience. Order the Prohibition Punch and be sure to ask the bartender about the story behind the “punch,” a long-standing tradition.

CANTERBURY, N.H.

Step back in time at the Canterbury Shaker Village which was founded in 1792 and has remained an active community continually occupied by Shakers for 200 years. Now a museum, it’s one of the most intact and authentic Shaker sites. Plan on spending the entire day in the village and learn all about the fascinating Shakers. Narrated tours are given throughout the day telling the story of the Shaker’s interesting communal lifestyle and their unique religion and belief system. They believed in equality between the sexes and celibacy. Twenty five of the original buildings remain in the village and are open to the public including a one-room school house, Meeting House used for religious gatherings, Dwelling House, infirmary and kitchen. On the informative tours, visitors will learn about the Shaker’s resourceful labor saving inventions, see exquisitely crafted furniture, discover patented medicine and tonics invented by Shakers and the famous “Dorothy Cloak.” Take a break in between tours and enjoy a quick lunch at The Creamery, an onsite cafe serving homemade soups, sandwiches, salads and baked goods.

WHERE TO STAY: If you’re looking for an authentic New England experience in a quintessential setting, spend a few nights at Canterbury Center Bed & Breakfast. The charming B & B is located off the beaten track down a winding country back road only four miles from Canterbury Shaker Village. You’ll drive though the woods passing farms and ponds and see spectacular fall foliage along the way. Stop in at the old fashioned country store just across the road from the B & B, a good place to pick up local smoked cheese, jerky and maple syrup.

The historic home built in 1793, is tastefully furnished with lovely antiques. Innkeeper, Lois Scribner goes all out to make her guests comfortable. Each of the four cozy guest rooms are named for a significant person who contributed to the history of Canterbury. Lois prepares scrumptious full breakfasts which usually include fresh fruit crumbles made from apples and pears picked from the onsite orchard and herb frittatas made with farm fresh eggs and herbs and veggies harvested from her garden.

Drive a mile down the road for the ultimate, iconic New England fall experience, to Hackleboro Orchards. Bring the kids and spend the afternoon picking apples and going on an old fashioned hay ride. “Hackleboro Harry” will show you how to pick apples, or if you don’t feel like it, you’ll find 25 different varieties of apples in the farmstand along with pumpkins, local maple products and lots more. Treat yourself to a delicious New England fall tradition - fresh apple cider donuts. Watch these mouth-watering donuts being made right on the spot, then sprinkled with cinnamon sugar.

WATERVILLE VALLEY

Waterville Valley, an oasis nestled in the White Mountains National Forest, is a terrific year round resort area and a great family destination. Waterville Valley opened for the 1966-67 season as one of the largest ski areas in New England with

many miles of trails for cross-country skiing. The premiere ski resort, known for its “racer mountain,” attracted the Kennedy family and other serious skiers. Whether you’re a skier, hiker or nature enthusiast the area is ideal for unwinding surrounded by stunning natural scenery. With over 100 miles of hiking trails, Waterville Valley is the perfect spot for leaf peeping in the fall. It’s also home to the Curious George Cottage which offers activities and programs for kids and families.

WHERE TO STAY:

Black Bear Lodge is casual, cozy and very family friendly with kitchenettes and Murphy beds, indoor outdoor pool. The lodge is conveniently located to all of the resort’s amenities. Nice folks at the front desk are extremely helpful.

WHERE TO EAT:

The Coyote Grill has been and continues to be a favorite with locals and for good reason. Celebrity chef and owner, Sean Stout has quite a following. He’s known for his culinary creations and whipping up seasonal specialties and other long standing favorites at Coyote Grill for over 25 years. The restaurant serves exotic local game meats including elk, venison and wild boar. Chef Sean taps into fall flavors - one of his culinary showstoppers is Autumn Acorn squash pappardelle smothered in a rich white wine cream sauce. Foodies come from miles around for his award-winning spring rolls served with Thai peanut and ginger sauce.

For breakfast pop into La Tasse Cafe a popular local spot and hangout for breakfast sandwiches, homemade quiche and a good selection of coffee.

Even if it’s not Thanksgiving and you’re craving a turkey dinner with all the trimming and delicious side dishes, head over to Hart’s Turkey Farm Restaurant in Meredith on RT 3. Everyday is Thanksgiving Day here. This family owned and operated restaurant has been going strong for 65 years. The restaurant is famous for it’s gigantic turkey dinners with all of the trimmings, baked goods and good old home cooking just like Grandma used to make.

https://visitwatervillevalley.com

For more info - official website of NH Travel and Tourism: https://www.visitnh.gov/

MICHELLE NEWMAN
Travel Writer
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For more resources on planning your new Hampshire trip, visit:
https://www.visitnh.gov