Frankfort's Newest Mexican Restaurant Is A Hidden Gem

FRANKFORT, IL — Casa Vargas is Frankfort's newest taqueria tucked into a squat, red-brick building with green awnings along U.S Route 30. It's so small that if you blinked you could miss it.

Don't.

The Mexican restaurant that opened three weeks ago is a hidden gem, one that offers crowd- pleasers and traditional plates freshly made and more flavorful that what one would expect at a typical taco joint.

Casa Vargas is tiny and a challenge to find. It sits in the same strip where the All-Star sports bar is, sandwiched between the bar and another restaurant with rotating owners. It is a narrow space with seven tables only and the order counter.

The owners, Miguel Vargas, 33, and his wife, Rocio, 25, have turned their nook into a sunny eatery bright with papel picado, or colorful banners, strung across the wall. This is their home away from home, they said, where they've planted their dreams.

Both Miguel and Rocio immigrated from Mexico when they were in their early teens. He's from Mexico City and she is from Guanajuato. Their families had to start over, learn the language, learn the culture and work hard to make ends meet, Rocio said. They want want a better life for their children, ages two and three, they said. More money. Better schools.

"Plus, I love Mexican food," Miguel said, so why not share it with Frankfort residents?

Miguel said he learned to cook at age seven, when he'd make huevos rancheros with his mother. Both of his parents work and she ran a tight ship -- everyone needed to help out, he said.

He learned the business while working in other Mexican restaurants as he grew up, he said. That's how he developed an appreciation for high-quality food and little details, such as how food is served on the table. The little things, he said, make all the difference.

"We want our customers to be happy," he said.

But it's Rocio, who is an artist in her spare time, who excels in the Casa Vargas kitchen. It's her balance of garlic and spices that make the refried beans more than the muddy slick of lard some places serve (Rocio doesn't use lard, she said), and her touch of cinnamon that make the horchata and sopapillas stand out.

The couples pride themselves on using fresh ingredients only and on cooking to order. All meat orders are prepared from fresh meat -- they don't cook it in batches and reheat it. Their red and green salsas are made by hand. The horchata and strawberry cream drinks are thick, cold and refreshing.

The signature dish at Casa Vargas is the steak tacos -- or any tacos, really, Rocio said. They make authentic ones, with cilantro and onion, or in any combination a patron orders. Street tacos are coming soon, she said.

The menu offers staples, including burritos and quesadillas. However, Casa Vargas also offers Mexican dishes that are a little harder to find in the south suburbs, including sopes — which is like a very thick taco —tamales and gorditas. The couple will be expanding the menu in coming weeks and are looking to add weekend specials, such as pozole or mole.

"We are brand new, but we will get there," Rocio said.

Delivery will be available in coming days. Musicians perform live on Friday nights.

Casa Vargas is located at 7818 West Lincoln Highway. It is open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday from 1 p.m. to 1 a.m., Saturday from 2 p.m. to 1 a.m., and Sunday from 2 to 9:30 p.m. Find more information and the menu at the restaurant's Facebook page.

Photos via Casa Vargas, Erika Hobbs/Patch and Google.