The grounds of Montpelier (Photo courtesy Montpelier Foundation)
Orange and Greene counties offer a slower pace of life in a chiefly rural setting north of Charlottesville. In addition to their colorful names, they also share history: Greene County, Virginia’s second smallest, was cleaved from Orange County in 1838 and named for Revolutionary War Gen. Nathanael Greene. Orange was named for the English King William III, aka William of Orange, but the county was also home to founding father James Madison, an architect of the U.S. Constitution.
Going Greene
For forest hikes, visitors to Greene County can access the 10,000-acre Rapidan Wildlife Management Area along the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Seek out paths paralleling the Rapidan River. The Graves Mill Trail reaches the Shenandoah National Park boundary with a 900-foot elevation. Once COVID-19 pandemic restrictions are eased, Swift Run Gap is an entryway to Shenandoah National Park that crosses Skyline Drive to deliver commanding views of the mountainous landscape. For history lovers, the woodsy retreat favored during the depths of the Depression by President Herbert Hoover and his wife, first lady Lou Henry Hoover, is Rapidan Camp in the Shenandoah National Park. When it reopens, park rangers lead tours and provide historic context.
A nearby dining option is the bright yellow Blue Ridge Cafe at 8315 Seminole Trail in Ruckersville. Curbside pickup and takeaway service is available, with hearty comfort food served in generous portions, from a varied menu of favorites like steaks, beer-battered fish, pulled pork, shrimp skewers and pasta bowls. The restaurant in early May was offering the Blue Ridge Tailgate Dinner from 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday-Saturdays, and had suspended brunch.
Understanding the Past
In Orange County, there’s plenty of nature to engage with at Montpelier, the historic estate of James Madison, the fourth president of the United States. The estate has closed to the public until pandemic restrictions are eased, but usually, there are tours of the main house that delve into the personalities and ideas of the founding father, who was known as a revered thinker; his family; and the enslaved people who resided at the property. Newer exhibits and interpretation about the men and women who toiled on the estate have been thoughtfully developed with the help of many of their descendants, making a visit to Montpelier a thoughtful and worthy experience.
Montpelier also has more than 8 miles of well-tended and leisurely walking trails that can take visitors to the far reaches of the property to see the slave cemetery, Civil War-era sites and landmark forests, as well as the stunning landscape of rolling hills with the Blue Ridge Mountains in the distance.
You can tour Montpelier’s Annie duPont Formal Gardens on the 3.5 mile Montpelier Loop Trail.
Savory local fare, charred on the grill, is available for takeout at the Barbeque Exchange in Gordonsville.
On the Vine
A great way to experience Orange and Greene counties is by visiting some of the eight small, rustic vineyards in the area that make up the Montpelier Wine Trail. As this article went to print, some of the vineyards were offering their beverages for purchase, while adhering to current health restrictions.
Chateau MerrillAnne in Orange is offering touchless curbside pickup from noon to 4 p.m. Saturdays or any day by appointment. Its Viognier is a consistent award winner at the Virginia Commercial Wine Competition, sponsored by the Virginia State Fair. In anticipation of summer, their wine slushie mix is available so you can make your own slushie at home — just add a bottle of wine, which they’ll happily sell you, too, of course.
Madison County’s Blue Quartz Winery in Etlan, just north of Orange and Greene counties, offers curbside service hours from 4 to 8 p.m. Fridays and 3 to 7 p.m. Saturdays, and weekdays were by appointment. It also has a new wine to check out this spring. “As a new venue, we have our first estate-grown rosé, which they describe as crisp and fruity with good minerality, hints of peach and strawberry, and a dry herbal finish,” says Tiffany Woodward, tasting room manager.
Stay
For a variety of smaller lodging options in the area, check The Inns at Montpelier, an association of bed-and-breakfasts. Be aware that many of these locations and destinations were closed or partially closed in early spring due to the coronavirus pandemic. Check websites for updates.
