Hyderabad’s Irani Chai

Around the 19th century when Persian immigrants settled in Hyderabad, they brought with them the culture of converging at cafes where young men would socialise. Gradually, the
locals too were drawn in. There was a catch though – coffee was the preferred drink here. Since integration has been the cornerstone of the success of migrant Iranians, they found a way around this too - they added milk to their chai and served it sweet, just like the locals liked their coffee.Thus, Irani chai was born. Two centuries later, for many Hyderabadis, it’s not morning until they slurp their first cup of Irani chai from the saucer. Served with a side of Osmania biscuits or the lukmi, this chai is not just a morning drink, it’s culture in a tea cup. Sajjad Shahid, historian and heritage conservationist, says, “Initally served only in Irani cafes, soon even the non-Iranian cafes, known as Deccani cafes, started serving the chai.”
With skyrocketing real estate prices and changing preferences of Hyderabad, the number of these cafes dwindled. Some have stood the test of time though. Like The Grand Hotel, one of the oldest standing Irani cafes in the city. Jaleel Farrokhroz, the current proprietor, says, “In 1935, some Persian immigrants started the hotel. We were the first restaurant that served Irani chai commercially to Hyderabadis.”
What’s special
It is difficult to make this chai at home because the preparation process is time-consuming and needs special vessels. It is important to use the best quality tea leaves, otherwise, the required viscosity will not be obtained. “Tea leaves are boiled on low flame in a copper handa (pot), which has a tap attached to it. The trick is in boiling the decoction for hours as the flavour has to seep in. The vessel is sealed with a piece of thick cloth, so that no steam escapes. Full cream milk is boiled and sweetened in a different pot until it is thick and creamy. The decoction is poured into a cup and the sweetened milk is laddled over it,” says Shahid, adding, “Some also like the preparation without milk (Sulemani). There’s another version called the pauna - a light, creamy chai, that comes with 1/4th decoction and 3/4th milk, and upar se malai.”
Recipe:
Ingredients: (Serves 4 cups) | Water: 6 cups | Assam tea dust (mix of long and small leaves ): 6 tbsp | Sugar: 6 tbsp | For the milk: 2 1/2 cup full fat milk with the cream
Method
• Boil the milk in a thick-bottomed vessel until it’s thick and creamy.
• Boil water, tea leaves and sugar together in a separate vessel, ideally one with a lid. Simmer on low flame for 40 minutes. Cover the vessel with a lid and seal with a cloth.
• Once the decoction has a strong colour and aroma, fill half a cup with this and spoon sweetened milk into this until the cup is filled. • Stir and serve.
Secret Ingredients: Full fat milk with cream
Process: Slow-cooked on dum in a copper handa
The trick of making it : Condense the milk by boiling and stirring it continuously for 40 minutes at least
The trick of having it: With a side of Osmania biscuits or lukmi
Brew tip: The quality of tea leaf decides the viscosity of tea