The stone temple tower, at least two centuries old, looms above the trees as I heave and haul myself up the steep winding trek through the cedar and pine forest past the apple orchards. At the last bend, the village of Chehni Kothi in Himachal Pradesh with its narrow lanes and stone houses appears as a painting on the clear azure canvas. And it is a time warp. The stone and wood houses seem from another age; frozen in time.
Himachal Pradesh: Traditional Architecture
Chehni Kothi in Tirthan Valley, Himachal Pradesh, is among the few villages left that still practise the traditional construction methods. The typical layout of Himachal village is quite evident here with the nine-storey temple tower, once a fort residence of Queen Chaini, occupying the central location. Another shorter tower is the temple's treasury religiously guarded by Sundar Bhandari, the village treasurer. A new house being built overlooking the temple courtyard follows the traditional kath kuni construction.
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Himachal Pradesh: Long-Lasting Structures
Kath kuni is derived from two words ‘kashth or kath' for wood in Sanskrit and ‘kona' for corner. With many typical ancient structures having survived tectonic tremors, the resilience of the kath kuni structures lie in the flexibility of dry masonry and alternate layers of wood beams without any cementing material. The stone plinth rises above the ground level giving strength to the superstructure and also preventing it from snow and ground water.
Himachal Pradesh: Weather-Friendly Architecture
While a truncated stone corner protects the wooden beams, a wooden peg known as kadil helps in keeping solid wood beams in place. The double-skinned walls with the air gap between two parallel wooden beams filled with loose, small stone pieces insulates the structure, keeping it warm in cold weather and cool in summers. The air gaps also dissipate the seismic force during earthquakes preventing cracks and caving in of walls.
Himachal Pradesh: Aesthetically Pleasing
This mountain architecture, that seems to grow organically from the terrain and blends in its surroundings seamlessly, does not compromise with aesthetics either. Topped with pent-and-gable slate shingles roof, these structures with projecting balconies have intricately carved wood cresting. The locals carve columns and beams with elaborate patterns for the decoration. The mix of texture of stone with wood creates interesting patterns on the walls.
Himachal Pradesh: Stability for Years
While the stone roof naturally weighs down the structure providing stability, the small openings and projected balconies help manage the weather. Usually, the lowest part of the built structure works as storage or shed for cattle. While the houses rise up to two or three storeys, the temple towers often built on the highest spot of the village, meant as watch towers, go up to nine storeys.
Himachal Pradesh: Architectural Heritage
Naggar Castle that has been converted into a heritage hotel in Kullu, was built by Raja Sidh Singh about five centuries ago with kath kuni construction. It stands unharmed even after a massive earthquake in 1905. Hidimba Temple in Manali, towers in Moorang and Chitkul in Kinnaur, besides Chehni Kothi, all built traditionally with naturally available materials have also stood the test of time and escaped unscathed from natural calamities.
The local mason's knowledge about the terrain, available natural resources and climate played a vital role in the longevity of these traditional structures. Because vernacular architecture responds to local needs with indigenous materials reflecting local traditions and culture, it is unique and mostly fares well.
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Himachal Pradesh: A Dying Craft?
But with some villages gradually opting for brick and concrete structures, kath kuni the vernacular architecture of Himachal Pradesh is on a decline. Not only do houses made with newer materials come with heavy maintenance , the issues of transportation costs for construction materials and outsourced labour, and constructional waste ultimately harm the ecology.
In Tirthan Valley, I see most houses with flat concrete or sloping tin roofs but these are an eyesore. And I am saddened at the fast changing landscape and yet faster changing architecture that is soulless and lacking the graceful character of vernacular structures.
Trekking back from Chehni Kothi, I hope that better sense prevails and the traditional vernacular architecture wins over.
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