On any adventure, it’s important to have a “base camp” — a place you return to, regroup and reflect on your experiences, but that also lets you savor amenities you may not find on the open road. For a foliage expedition in Vermont, the perfect choice for a base camp is the capital city of Montpelier.
Located in the central part of the state, Montpelier balances charm and sophistication, serenity and bustle. Centered by the state capitol building (a showpiece in the fall when its brick and gold dome stands out, flanked by colorful trees; how many statehouses are a few steps away from a beautiful hike in the woods?), the city of busy yet walkable streets is dotted with amazing dining spots, quaint and captivating shops, an art scene and district, and much more.
Starting your day in Montpelier does not mean hitting the road early before traffic can ruin the vibe. Montpelier never gets crazy busy. Instead, plan on fueling up for your adventure by meandering to one of the city’s great breakfast spots.
The site of the New England Culinary Institute (breeding ground for countless gifted chefs) and famous for attracting creatives, Montpelier has no shortage of great dining spots. In the morning, locals know to head to Down Home Kitchen (100 Main St.; downhomekitchenvt.com) for the Roasted Root Veggie Hash, the Biscuits & Gravy and the laid-back atmosphere. Generous and innovative define their breakfast plates. Trust me, you’ll want to linger. For a quicker but just as yummy start, pop into Capitol Grounds (27 State St.; capitol grounds.com) for a breakfast sandwich, amazing coffee and, chances are, a glance at a famed political face or two. For made-in-the-moment bagels, head to Bagitos Bagel and Burrito Cafe (28 Main St., bagitos.com).
Once you’ve had your fill, point your car north or west and within minutes, you’re deep in the thick of nature and all those gorgeous Vermont trees, along with all the can’t-miss spots for your trip. Twenty minutes north and you’re in Waterbury and Stowe, where you can make your Ben & Jerry’s pilgrimage (1281 Waterbury Stowe Road, Route 100, Waterbury), savor the Cold Hollow Cider Mill (3600 Waterbury Stowe Road, Waterbury Center), and take some time to ride the bike path, hike the mountain or just sit back and take it all in.
Or head south for about 15 minutes and you’ll find yourself deep in the heart of the Green Mountains in the city of Barre. “City” is a subjective term in Vermont, and while Barre qualifies as one, there you’ll find four quaint villages (part of surrounding Barre Town), deep woods, magnificent art and history centered around granite, the rock that gave rise to the city. Its Opera House is a Vermont highlight, and so, given the granite history, is its cemetery. Some of the most remarkable granite art in the state — and perhaps anywhere — is in Hope Cemetery.
Most other Vermont foliage spots are an easy jaunt as well. With Montpelier’s central location, most are an hour or less away, meaning you can head out, explore and be back in time for more Capitol City fun.
You’ll want to check out Montpelier’s weekly farmers market, one of the largest in the state, that brings in Vermont-made foods and wares.
And there is late-day fun to be had. Down those busy roads you’ll find an abundance of diverse foods, shopping, people watching and a lively music scene.
Topping that list is Langdon Street, a lovingly reimagined city thoroughfare dedicated to arts of every kind. On Langdon, visitors will find color, art, live beauty (like the floral bridge, which stays in bloom into early October) and whimsical additions, like tree-trunk tables with games left for anyone to play anytime (it’s a trusting kind of place).
Dining and music at night is nothing short of magical. For a classic spot that knows how to make locally sourced rock, head to J. Morgan’s Steakhouse (100 State St.; capitolplaza.com). Beer and brewery-fare lovers simply must spend an evening at the famed Three Penny Taproom (108 Main St., threepennytaproom.com).
Montpelier makes the perfect base camp, with so much to entertain you and situated in the right spot to launch your foliage adventures. Learn more at montpelieralive.org.
