We all can have a tendency come ski season to point our cars toward the mountains and just go until we reach that destination. But when it comes to Vermont in the winter, it’s a great idea before you hit the mountains to stop and savor the city.
We’re talking Montpelier here. Because while it’s well known that this is a city worth meandering in the summer and fall mouths, winter there is special too. For the juxtaposition of rivers, distant peaks, Vermont thick woods and yes, a true cityscape, you’ll want to spend a day — or more — in Montpelier.
The city sits just off the highway on your way north, an easy off-ramp to a fun experience. Parking is easy, and while it is a “city,” walking is pretty doable to most places in the center. They call themselves “America’s Coziest Small City,” and a visit there shows you why.
Start with coffee or cocoa. There are eight full-on bakeries and coffee shops in the downtown area. For a great chance to bump into famed elected officials (and perhaps even a presidential candidate) stop in at Capitol Grounds Cafe. (capitolgrounds.com). You’ll find their own brewed coffee along with teas, kombucha, pastries, soups and sandwiches. They also give you a taste of Montpelier’s art scene, as works by local artists are on display. .
Pop into the stores along the main roads. Montpelier is a city filled with independently owned shops. You’ll find vinyl records, local art, cool clothing and lots more as you make your way. The Artisans Hand Craft Gallery (artisanshand.com) is a great example. There you’ll find all kinds of cool creations, all from local talent. Like any good city, Montpelier has a vibrant independent bookstore. Bear Pond Books (bearpondbooks.com) has three floors of books and other book-lovers items; a literary browser’s heaven.
When you need a snack or lunch (or dinner), there are plenty of options as well. Drawing from both the independent and creative lifestyle Vermont is known for and the talent from nearby culinary institutes, the city is home to all kinds of unique and inspired dining spots. You’ll find American, Italian and Mexican cuisine, as well as innovative new styles of dining. The new hot spot to check out is The Hippie Chickpea, where you’ll find Mediterranean fare with a Vermont twist.
Sure, it gets cold in Vermont in the winter. But Montpelier has a way of feeling cozy in those months. Take their Farmers Market (capitalcityfarmersmarket.com/about-us/markets/), famed worldwide. Rather than wait until spring, they move it indoors and celebrate the local offerings all winter long. A cool bonus to the indoor farmers market: They believe they may be the only farmer’s market in the nation held at a gin distillery. The market takes place at Caledonia Spirits distillery, makers of Barr Hill Gin, so you can discover, taste and even learn what drinks to create.
There’s also the Vermont Statehouse, beautiful in its winter setting, museums and more. And just to show you their love, the city puts on special winter events as well.
The Spice on Snow Winter Music Festival takes place Jan. 23-26 and gets the city jumping with live music and musical events. You’ll find Cajun, Americana, honky-tonk and swing music as well as workshops, jam sessions and more on stages set up around the city. You can learn more at summitschool.wixsite.com/summitschool/home.
They also host the Ice on Fire Central Vermont Winter Festival this year on Feb. 2. That day you can savor locally inspired dance, theater, music, storytelling and poetry performed by local artists; winter games, kids activities and hot food and drinks like free, warming cider.
But every day is really a winter festival in Montpelier. Next time you point the car north for the hills, add a winter city stop as well. Learn more at montpelieralive.org.
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