A quick guide to Kohima and Dimapur

Where to stay, what to eat and what to bring back from Nagaland’s two most important cities

Kohima, Nagaland. Photo: G&M Therin-Weise/Getty Images

One of India’s most states, Nagaland is home to more than 15 major tribes, each with their unique culture. Here’s how to work your way through Kohima and Dimapur, its two biggest cities:

How to get to Nagaland

There are flights to Dimapur airport from major Indian cities. Indian passport-holders require an Inner Line Permit (ILP), which can be applied for at Nagaland House offices in New Delhi, Kolkata, Shillong and Guwahati, or via a travel agent or tour operator. All applications need to be made individually and are granted for only 30 days. Foreigners do not require an ILP, except for citizens of China and Pakistan. Within Nagaland, the only way to travel is by taxi on roads that are usually uncomfortable, bumpy and extremely dusty. Take necessary precautions and be prepared for slow-going.

Where to stay in Dimapur and Kohima

In Dimapur, you can book a room at Longchen Homestay (86388 03298; doubles from Rs2,600), which comes with great food and hospitality and outstanding connections that will ease your travel across the state. There are more luxurious options for accommodation available at Niathu Resort (doubles from Rs4,400), including extensive grounds and a swimming pool. 

In Kohima, the best alternatives are the relatively posh De Oriental Grand (doubles from Rs5,074), the rustic heritage boutique hotel Razhu Pru (doubles from Rs2,500) and the superbly situated, converted colonial bungalow The Heritage (9436215259; doubles from Rs3,000). Khonoma has a number of simple homestays plus the incredible Dovipie Inn (doubles from Rs2,500), which has stunning valley views from its terrace.

Where to eat in Dimapur and Kohima

Nagaland abounds with great food, some of which contain unfamiliar ingredients that may put a few people off. But that’s no reason not to try everything else. Make your preferences clear right from the outset, and your palate will be endlessly delighted. In Dimapur, don’t miss Ethnic Table (90896 71396), which is easily one of the best restaurants in the country. Young locals are very fond of The Black Sheep (88372 89472), which serves pizza, pasta and various Western-style specials.

Nagaland travel guide - kohima, dimapur, stay, eat and shopping
Bee larvae, a Naga delicacy. Photo: Arjun Menon

On the highway to Kohima, make a stop at Chapru (89745 04331) for Naga fusion dishes and some of the best one-stop jewellery and handicraft shopping. In Kohima, the can’t-miss culinary landmark is the brilliant Chingtsuong Restaurant (94360 01855), where you should call 24 hours in advance to ensure that “Uncle” has enough time to prepare traditional dishes. The state capital is also home to several buzzing cafés, including the Swedish-run Food (85752 08120).

What to buy in Dimapur and Kohima

Even by the spectacular standards of the rest of Northeast India, Nagaland is a hub for traditional crafts as well as world-class produce and outstanding modern fashion, which are bound to offer much to challenge your baggage allowance. Don’t miss the traditional markets in each city, all of which showcase typical weaves and jewellery distinct to different tribes. For affordable Western-style couture in Dimapur, check out Thokha Studio (87874 89484) and The Daughters (89745 47385). Diezephe Craft Village, 13km from the city centre, showcases handlooms, bamboo and cane handiwork.

Nagaland travel guide - kohima, dimapur, stay, eat and shopping
Interiors of Thokha Studio in Dimapur. Photo: Arjun Menon

In Kohima, Made in Nagaland (8132869779) is an essential stop for designer clothes and shoes. The shop also has an impressive range of both old-fashioned and contemporary jewellery and all kinds of food products, including the instantly addictive Chuka Seriously Hot Sauce Naga Mircha and other great sauces made by Chef Joel Basumatari, who used to head the now-shuttered Dimapur restaurant Smokey Joe’s

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