Cheesed off! Farmers demand that first vegan cheese shop changes its name because products do not contain dairy

  • La Fauxmagerie in Brixton, south London, is in dispute with the dairy industry
  • Dairy UK said it misled customers to describe their products as cheese
  • The shop sells dairy-free cheddar, camembert and halloumi, among others

As Monty Python once said, 'Blessed are the Cheesemakers' – unless you are Charlotte and Rachel Stevens, that is.

Because, in a dispute worthy of the famous skit from the Life of Brian, the joint owners of Britain's first vegan cheese store are battling the dairy industry over whether their 'artisan cheeses' are worthy of the name.

Vegan cheese does not contain milk, comes in many varieties and is made from an assortment of plant-based ingredients such as cashew and coconut.

Within days of opening in Brixton, south London, La Fauxmagerie received a letter from Dairy UK, the dairy industry's trade association, asking it to stop describing products as 'cheese' because it misleads shoppers. 

Charlotte Stevens, 30, who opened the UK's first vegan cheese shop with sister Rachel, 26, has been asked by the dairy industry to stop describing products as cheese because it is 'misleading'. Pictured, Charlotte with cashew based 'Nerominded cheese' by I Am Not OK

Charlotte Stevens, 30, who opened the UK's first vegan cheese shop with sister Rachel, 26, has been asked by the dairy industry to stop describing products as cheese because it is 'misleading'. Pictured, Charlotte with cashew based 'Nerominded cheese' by I Am Not OK

Dairy-free 'cheese' rounds available to purchase at  La Fauxmagerie, Brixton, include ones flavoured with chilli flakes, chives and sundried tomato

Dairy-free 'cheese' rounds available to purchase at  La Fauxmagerie, Brixton, include ones flavoured with chilli flakes, chives and sundried tomato

Rachel, 26, and sister Charlotte, 30, who is lactose intolerant, began the business after ditching their day jobs. They call the objections 'ridiculous and 'unnecessary'.

The shop has been hailed a success among vegans with dairy-free cheddar, Camembert, mozzarella and Halloumi on offer. 

'We just thought we were opening a little dairy-free cheese shop,' said Rachel, a former Marks & Spencer merchandise worker. 

'We expected attention because we knew we'd be the first in the country, but didn't expect to ruffle feathers. Dairy UK sent a letter to the shop.' 

Rachel, who became vegan this year, said the dairy giant's claim 'discredits and underestimates the intelligence' of their customers.

The shop has been hailed a success among vegans with dairy-free cheddar, camembert, mozzarella and halloumi on offer. Pictured, a black pepper encrusted cheese from I Am Nut OK

The shop has been hailed a success among vegans with dairy-free cheddar, camembert, mozzarella and halloumi on offer. Pictured, a black pepper encrusted cheese from I Am Nut OK

The sisters stock vegan 'cheese' from around the country, including a selection from Tyne Chease, an 'artisan vegan chease' produced in the North East of England, pictured

The sisters stock vegan 'cheese' from around the country, including a selection from Tyne Chease, an 'artisan vegan chease' produced in the North East of England, pictured

Charlotte Stevens, pictured, standing outside the newly opened La Fauxmagerie in Brixton

Charlotte Stevens, pictured, standing outside the newly opened La Fauxmagerie in Brixton

How does vegan cheese stack up? We put two brands to the test... 

Two Femail journalists sampled a 'cheddar' and 'Camembert' vegan cheese in our own taste test. 

Violife Cheddar Vegan Cheese Block (£4.65) 

Siofra Brennan: 'The Violife Cheddar Vegan Cheese Block is a rather alarming colour of radioactive orange, but it smells convincing when you open the packet. It’s made with coconut oil, starch, olive extract and paprika for colouring so the list of ingredients isn’t too alarming at all. 

'However, it tastes extremely processed. If you don’t mind very synthetic orange cheese, then this probably isn’t too bad. I suspect it might taste better melted.'

Joanna Tweedy: 'Nuclear orange, this reminds me of the squeezy canned processed cheese you find in US supermarkets.'

'Taste-wise, it does a reasonable impression of a packet of Wotsits – sweet and fake – but not an entirely disastrous experience.' 

'A hard sell for cheese lovers': Femail's Joanna Tweedy described the New Roots Organic soft white ‘Camembert’, pictured in hand, as 'tangy and a little bit smokey'. Also pictured on the plate, Violife Cheddar Vegan Cheese Block (£4.65)

'A hard sell for cheese lovers': Femail's Joanna Tweedy described the New Roots Organic soft white ‘Camembert’, pictured in hand, as 'tangy and a little bit smokey'. Also pictured on the plate, Violife Cheddar Vegan Cheese Block (£4.65)

Femail tried the Violife Cheddar Vegan Cheese Block
New Roots Organic soft white ‘Camembert’

Femail tried the Violife Cheddar Vegan Cheese Block (£4.65), left, and the New Roots Organic soft white ‘Camembert’ (£7.99), right, to see how vegan 'cheese' stacks up

New Roots Organic soft white ‘Camembert’ (£7.99)  

Joanna Tweedy: 'There’s a decent-looking rind, so that’s hopeful…but nothing can distract from the grey pallor. The texture is moist and feels like a heavy mousse in the mouth. 

Less than impressed: Femail's Siofra Brennan described the grey hue of the 'camembert' as 'very off-putting'

Less than impressed: Femail's Siofra Brennan described the grey hue of the 'camembert' as 'very off-putting'

'And the taste? Tangy and a little bit smokey…it’s a hard sell for a dairy lover but might just satisfy a vegan’s cheese cravings.'

Siofra Brennan: 'The "camembert" smells nothing like the real thing, which may be a bonus for some who don’t enjoy the pungent aroma in their fridge. 

'It doesn’t smell of anything much at all, which is probably down to the fact it’s made from nothing but cashew nuts, water, salt and plant based fermenting and ripening colours. 

'When you cut into it, the grey hue is very off putting and there’s something about the spongy texture that makes me feel like I’m eating something that’s gone off. The taste is a bit yeasty, but quite mild. 

'It lacks the richness of the real thing, and just isn’t going to cut it for pursists I fear. I have a vague sense that I’m eating something that’s gone off.'

Neither brand is sold at La Fauxmagerie. 

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She continued: 'It's clear in the name of our business that we are selling dairy free products - it's a pun.

'Our tagline also clearly states we are a plant based cheese monger. 

'It all seems a little unnecessary, people are generally aware that plant based means non-dairy. Peanut butter doesn't include butter and when people ask for a soy latte at Costa, they ask for soya milk -not blended soya beans. 

Charlotte serves up some of the Nerominded 'cheese' by plant based company I Am Nut OK. This cashew-based cheese is laced with organic miso and black truffle oil, then dusted with golden turmeric, giving it a rich, indulgent umami flavour

Charlotte serves up some of the Nerominded 'cheese' by plant based company I Am Nut OK. This cashew-based cheese is laced with organic miso and black truffle oil, then dusted with golden turmeric, giving it a rich, indulgent umami flavour

The 'cheese' on offer at La Fauxmagerie can look strikingly different to traditional dairy offerings

The 'cheese' on offer at La Fauxmagerie can look strikingly different to traditional dairy offerings

'We've not highlighted the nutritional value of our cheeses or compared it to others. 

She added: 'We understand people might be sceptical because the food culture in the UK is very meat heavy. 

What is vegan 'cheese' made from? 

Vegan cheese does not contain milk, comes in many varieties and is made from an assortment of plant-based ingredients such as cashew and coconut.

It can also be made from seeds, such as sesame and sunflower; nuts, such as pine nut, and almond; and soybeans, peanuts, nutritional yeast, tapioca, and rice, among other ingredients.

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'I only became fully vegan this year and my childhood favourite use to be my gran's corn beef pie so I completely understand. 

'We make a point on our website to say we're not pressuring people and a lot of meat eaters come into the shop to try samples and they love them.' 

The sisters decided to focus on cheese because that's what most people miss when they go vegan. 

'After a bit of research we realised there's not one single place where you can buy the best dairy free cheese brands,' she said.  

'We wanted it to be easy and accessible so contacted our favourite brands to ask if they'd consider stocking their produce and we got really good feedback. 

The vegan cheese shop sells dairy-free cheddar, camembert and halloumi, among others

The vegan cheese shop sells dairy-free cheddar, camembert and halloumi, among others

'It was an idea which suddenly became reality when my sister bought a deli fridge - and then asked if I was ready to leave my job. 

Dairy UK said in a statement to the Daily Telegraph: 'Dairy UK has a duty to ensure the nutritional and health benefits of real dairy are recognised by and communicated to consumers. 

'It concerns us that consumers are being misled with the use of dairy terms like cheese by the plant-based sector.' 

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