Oregon Pinot Noir - Meeting The Challenge

Oregon is a wine territory where Pinot Noir dominates, both in plantings as well as state of mind. White wines of notable quality, such as Pinot Gris and Chardonnay are part of the state's viticultural identity, and there are even a few reds such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that add to the portfolio. But it is Pinot Noir, representing 69% of plantings, that tells the story of the Oregon wine scene.

Given that, Oregon has to face the challenge of producing noteworthy examples of Pinot Noir that can gather critical acclaim as well as the approval of the trade and consumers. You might think this is true for any varietal, but it's an especially important notion for Pinot Noir, given that there are very few places on earth where great - or at least excellent - Pinot Noir is produced. There's Burgundy, as well as a few locales in California, such as Russian River Valley, Carneros, Santa Lucia Highlands and Sta. Rita Hills, along with Central Otago in New Zealand, and a few others. Each of those places has been successful with Pinot Noir, yet the consistency one sees with other varietals, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Sauvignon Blanc, is not always present when considering Pinot Noir, even from the best regions. It's a fickle grape, dependent on cool weather, proper soils and attentive cellar practices.

I recently tasted a few dozen Oregon Pinot Noirs - admittedly a small cross section, as there are over 500 producers in the state that craft a Pinot Noir - to get an idea of the status quo for the varietal in the state. I'd give the winemakers an overall grade of B+, which is pretty high if you think about how inconsistent Pinot Noir production can be these days. The comparison for a territory where Pinot Noir is important is always "how do the wines compare with their counterparts from Burgundy?" This may or may not be fair, but it's inevitable, given the magnificence of the greatest red Burgundies (though some famous Burgundies do indeed disappoint).

Honestly, I did not find many Oregon Pinot Noirs to be Burgundian in nature, which is probably a good thing, as the state's vintners seem to be making the best wine they can from the grapes they work with, an admirable philosophy. The best wines I tasted had excellent ripeness, without being overripe (a challenge these days with climate change), good acidity and above all, notable harmony. Bigger is not better for most wines, especially with Pinot Noir.

Most examples I tasted were well balanced with impressive varietal character, although a few pushed the ripeness a bit. The problems I noticed with a few too many examples were twofold; a bit too much oak influence (though not as bad as several years ago) and the style of making a "serious" Pinot Noir for cellaring purposes. Wines made in this style, be they Pinot Noir or in reality, just about any varietal, tend to lack overall harmony and especially finesse, when crafted to be an "important" wine.

To sum up, the producers in Oregon are performing admirably with Pinot Noir, a not-so-easy task. Pricing can be a problem, as there are many bottles that retail for $65 an up, with a few in the $100-plus range. Most of these are for wines of very limited production, so the price tags are understandable. Yet even here, the consumer must remember that limited production does not guarantee quality, so there are some overpriced wines to be sure, although this is a fact in almost every wine region around the world.

One suggestion I would make to the producers and the organization that represents them, and that is to do a better job at informing everyone - trade, media and consumers - about your work. Many wineries may be small - 70% of Oregon wineries produce fewer than 5000 cases per year - but that doesn't mean that understanding Oregon's wines should be a challenge. For example, how many people know where the Eola-Amity Hills production zone is in Oregon? Compare that with names such as Stags Leap District and Oakville in Napa Valley, and you realize how far Oregon has to do as far as communication.

I learned from one producer that for the Oregon Pinot Camp, a multi-day educational event, press is not invited. Why would you not want the media there, especially in this day and age? This is a major mistake in my opinion.

But overall, credit is due to the Oregon producers for tackling the challenge of Pinot Noir and for largely succeeding. This is still a work in progress, and one that is proceeding very well.

Notes on current releases of Oregon Pinot Noir

Superb

Archery Summit "Arcus Vineyard" 2016 (Dundee Hills) - Ripe black cherry, cranberry and delicate wood aromas. Medium-full with very good acidity. Very rich mid-palate, excellent persistence, with subtle notes of brown spice (cumin) in the finish. Very stylish with layers of fruit and impressive texture. Enjoyable now, but best in another 5-7 years. One of Oregon's shining stars ($125).

Outstanding

Et Fille "Gabriella" 2016 (Willamette Valley) - This wine was one of the revelations of my tastings. Deep young garnet/purple; aromas of black plum, purple iris and soy. Medium-full with a generous mid-palate. Very good acidity, impressive persistence, nicely integrated wood notes, elegant tannins and beautiful complexity. 50% of the grapes went through whole cluster, which adds to the suppleness and finesse of this lovely wine! Reminiscent of a first-rate Morgon or Moulin-a-Vent, but unquestionably Pinot Noir. Enjoy over the next 7-8 years.

I asked Jessica Mozeico, president and winemaker at Et Fille, who told me that this wine, a blend of the best sites from three vineyards, is meant to show "our best foot forward by combining our favorite lots of a vintage into a wine that is meant to age with complexity, refinement, and grace." Regarding the whole cluster method, Mozeico adds that this technique "adds some floral aromatics and firm texture."

If you're a lover of Pinot Noir, don't miss this wine!

Nicolas Jay 2015 (Willamette Valley) - Aromas of sour cherry and red poppies. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Very good structure, excellent persistence. good acidity. Excellent complexity, beautifully styled. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. At $65 a bottle, this holds its own with other Oregon Pinots that are more costly. (Note: this producer makes several single vineyard Pinot Noirs which I did not get a chance to taste.)

Adelsheim "Bryan Creek Vineyard" 2015 (Chehalem Mountains) - Aromas of oregano, red cherry and sage. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Rich tannins that are balanced, good acidity and a distinct spicy note in the finish. Excellent complexity, this is meant more for laying away for a few years. Peak in 5-8 years, perhaps longer.  

Excellent

St. Innocent “Zenith Vineyard” 2015 (McMinville AVA) - Youthful garnet; morel cherry and red poppy aromas. Medium-full with very good concentration; ideal ripeness. Wood notes are nicely subdued, good acidity, notable persistence and overall, very nice harmony. Lovely varietal character, this has more charm and appeal than the other Pinot Noirs from this winery. 5-7 yrs.

St. Innocent “Freedom Hill Vineyard” 2015 (Willamette Valley) - Young garnet; lovely aromas of cardamon, wild strawberry and bing cherry. Medium-full with ideal ripeness, nicely integrated wood notes and distinct notes of cumin and tobacco in the finish. Rich, but not aggressive tannins. 5-7 years.

Domaine Drouhin 2016 (Dundee Hills) - Bright young garnet; aromas of black cherry, allspice and a hint of bacon fat. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Elegant, lengthy finish, with notable persistence and varietal character. A touch of heat in the finish, but oterwise a very impressive wine. Enjoyable now, but will reveal greater complexities in 5-7 years.

Division "Villages" Methode Carbonique" 2018 (Willamette Valley) - Pretty young garnet; aromas of bing cherry, cardamon and strawberry. Medium-full, with ideally ripe, juicy appealing fruit and zesty acidity. Very good persistence and lovely varietal purity. Very well made, this is a pleasure to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. I love that Division made this Methode Carbonique Pinot Noir, as it's a very appealing, wonderfully delicious wine that anyone would love. Perhaps more Oregon producers should also craft a wine in this style. ($25- an excellent value)

Division Eola Springs Vineyard “Deux” 2017 (Eola-Amity Hills) - Deep young garnet; aromas of wild cherry, cola and mace. Medium-bodied, this has distinct baking spice notes, very good acidity, ample wood notes and finely tuned tannins. Impressive complexity and persistence, this is quite stylish. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. 

Adelsheim "Calkins Lane Vineyard" 2015 (Chehalem Mountains) - Deep young garnet; aromas of bing cherry, red plum and a touch of nutmeg. Medium-full, this has lovely ripe black cherry fruit, medium-weight tannins, good acidity and notable persistence. Quite delicious, this is impressive now, but will be even better in a few years. Peak in 5-7 years, perhaps longer.

Matzinger Davies “Three Trees Vineyard” 2016 (Eola-Amity Hills) - Aromas of bing cherry, sage and a hint of cola. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very good ripeness, good acidity, nicely integrated wood notes and refined tannins; distinct notes of red spice in the finish. Excellent complexity and harmony, though a few years will bring out greater complexities. Peak in 5-7 years, perhaps longer.

Boedecker “Athena” 2015 - Aromas of red cherry, sage and tobacco. Medium-full with a rich mid-palate, good acidity, notable persistence, nicely integrated wood notes and rich tannins that are refined. Excellent complexity, subtle red spice note in the finish. Peak in 5-7 years. 

Bethel Heights "Estate" 2017 (Eola-Amity Hills) - Aromas of morel cherry, berry fruits and delicate black spice. Medium-full, this has excellent ripeness, with well integrated oak and elegant tannins. Very appealing now for its harmony and varietal character, this is a well balanced and delicious wine that will peak in 5-7 years. A notable value at $32.

Harper Voit "Strandline Vineyard" 2016 - Red plum and red poppy aromas. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Excellent ripeness and persistence, with lovely varietal purity. Impressive complexity. 5-7 years. Notable value at $40.

Very Good

St. Innocent “Temperance Hill Vineyard” 2015 (McMinville AVA) - Bing cherry, oregano and cumin aromas. Medium-full with very good depth of fruit, good acidity, young tannins, well integrated wood notes and impressive persistence. The fruit is slightly hidden now, and will need time to come around; this has a distinct herbal note throughout. 5-7 years.

Et Fille "Kalita Vineyard" 2016 (Yamhill-Carlton District) -Aromas of black cherry, purple orchid and red spice. Medium-full with ripe fruit, medium weight, elegant tannins and ample wood notes. This needs a bit of time to settle down, and the finish has a subdued herbal edge. Best in 4-6 years.

Division “Trois” Temperance Hill Vineyard” 2016 (Eola Amity Hills) - Young garnet; aromas of bing cherry, nutmeg, cardamon. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very tart acidity, medium-weight tannins, herbal finish with notes of smoked wood and cumin. Give this a year or two to round out. Best in 3-5 years.

Matzinger Davies 2016 (Eola-Amity Hills) - Aromas of cola, red plum and cardamon. Medium-full, this is very ripe with sweet, almost candied Pinot Noir fruit. Notable persistence, medium-weight tannins and notable wood notes. Lacks proper balance, though the ripe fruit will attract some Pinot lovers. Best in 3-5 years.

Drouhin Oregon “Roserock” 2015 (Eola-Amity Hills) - Young garnet; aromas of bing cherry, wild strawberry and thyme. Medium-full, this is ripe with very good varietal character, moderate tannins, subtle black spice and good acidity. Nicely balanced, drink over the next 3-5 years. 

Elizabeth Chambers 2016 (Willamette Valley) - Strawberry and tart cherry aromas. Medium-full, with excellent ripeness and harmony. Impressive persistence and complexity. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years.

Matzinger Davies “Poco Vineyard” 2016 (Eola-Amity Hills) - Aromas of maraschino cherry, thyme and china bark. Medium-full, this has very good depth of fruit and a storng herbal presence with tart acidity and medium-full tannins. This seems to be made to impress with its weight and intensity, but it lacks elegance. 5-7 years. 

St. Innocent “Momtazi Vineyard” 2015 (McMinville AVA) -Aromas of wild strawberry, sage and oregano. Medium-full with very good depth of fruit. Ample wood notes, balanced acidity. Ripe and spicy, this has fine varietal character, but lacks finesse and overall harmony. 5-7 years.

Boedecker Pinot Noir “Stewart” 2016

Youthful garnet; aromas of ripe strawberry, bing cherry and a hint of rhubarb. Meduim-full, this has storng red spice notes in the finish, good acidity, and medium-weight, slightly gritty tannins. Give time to round out. Best in 3-5 years. ***