Enjoy late summer light on Hamilton Mountain in the Columbia River Gorge

Golden light bathes the rocks and crags of the cliffs, a steep trail ascending through quiet forest before emerging suddenly, and often, to sweeping views of the magnificent gorge.

Hamilton Mountain is one of the most scenic spots in the Columbia River Gorge, itself one of the most scenic destinations in the Pacific Northwest. The climb to the top is always nice, but it’s especially beautiful on summer’s late afternoons and evenings, when crowds are sparse and the light in the gorge can be downright glorious.

A 3-mile trail takes hikers from the busy trailhead in Beacon Rock State Park to the top of the mountain, where views of Mount Hood and Mount Adams rise above the gorge. Along the way are several scenic stops that serve as brief detours, or even destinations in their own right for those who don’t have the time or desire to hike all the way to the top.

There’s Hardy Falls, seen from a viewpoint just off the trail; Pool of the Winds, where a small waterfall pours into a pool nestled into a rocky alcove; Rodney Falls, which stairsteps its way down a steep streambed; and Little Hamilton Mountain, a rocky outcropping about 2 miles up the trail with views that outshine those on the main summit.

All of it makes Hamilton Mountain one of the best hikes in the Columbia Gorge – and therefore one of the most popular.

In summers past, the Hamilton Mountain Trailhead parking lot – as well as the overflow parking lot just down the road – filled up fast on weekend and weekday mornings. This year, as more and more people hit Pacific Northwest trails amid the coronavirus pandemic, crowding at Beacon Rock has been even worse.

But savvy hikers willing to wait out the morning and afternoon rush can find plenty of open parking, and much more peace and quiet, by hiking up Hamilton Mountain in the late afternoon.

Bob Holland, a Washington State Parks ranger at Beacon Rock, said the trailhead parking lots tend to fill up by 9 a.m. on weekends and 10 a.m. on weekdays. By around 3:30 p.m., they start to empty out, opening up spots for evening hikers.

Those who want to hike later would do well to show up closer to 3:30 to allow plenty of time to get up and back down before dusk, Holland said, especially as the days grow shorter over the summer. To be safe, hikers should carry a headlamp or flashlight, and enough emergency supplies to last through the night.

And if you’re not sure how long it will take you to hike, give yourself an hour for every 1.5 miles, Holland said, with some additional time for good measure.

The hike to the summit and back is about six miles round-trip, though some hikers like to add 1.5 miles by making a loop hike, branching off the main path along the Hardy Creek Trail and a series of side trails that run along the backside of the mountain to the summit.

But in the half dozen times I’ve done this hike, I’ve never been tempted to stray from the primary trail. The views overlooking the gorge are simply too astounding to pass up, and a second look on the way back offers new, and equally stunning perspectives.

No matter how you do the hike, be sure to take your time soaking in the views overlooking the Columbia Gorge. If you do decide to go in the evening, you may be treated to a glorious sunset over the river, painting golden light across the land.

HAMILTON MOUNTAIN HIKE

Distance: 6 miles

Difficulty: Moderately difficult

Elevation gain: 2,100 feet

Amenities: Restroom, parking lot

Parking requires display of a Discover Pass. Day passes are $10 and annual passes are $30. Passes can be purchased at the park or in advance online and at local retailers.

-To reach the trailhead, take Washington State Route 14 east from Washougal to Beacon Rock State Park. As the highway passes through the park, look for a road that branches off to the left.

-After a short drive, the trailhead parking lot will be on the left. If it’s full, continue uphill to find the overflow parking lot.

-Head toward the restroom at the lower parking lot and find a trail that leads a short way to the Hamilton Mountain Trailhead, which leads off into the forest and begins the long climb.

-In .5 miles you’ll reach a junction that leads to the Beacon Rock campground. Ignore it and continue straight.

-After another .7 miles, a side trail leads a short way to a viewpoint overlooking Hardy Falls. Break off the main trail if you’d like a look, then continue on when you’re done.

-Just past the Hardy Falls viewpoint, the trail will fork. Stay left to walk a short way to Pool of the Winds, then return and take the other branch to cross Hardy Creek on a wooden footbridge as you continue on up the mountain.

-Just after the footbridge, the trail reaches a signed junction with the Hardy Creek Trail, which offers a loop hike for those who want it. (If you do decide to split off here, stay right at the next junction after 1.2 miles, then go right onto Don’s Cutoff Trail in another .5 miles. Stay left at the first junction, then stay right at the T once you reach the summit. Follow the saddle south until you reach the main trail back down.)

-Continuing along the main trail, you’ll reach the Little Hamilton Mountain viewpoint in another .7 miles. This is a great place to stop, rest and get some photos before the final push to the summit.

-Follow the trail another .9 miles, avoiding all user-made paths, until you reach the summit. Head back the way you came, or go left down the saddle to find the loop trail back.

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