With each season comes a new symphony of flavors. And while duck can be enjoyed at other times of the year, it is a dish that I strongly associate with autumn.
Perhaps it’s because of the complimentary flavors and side dishes that go with duck, or perhaps because duck season is this time of year, although the duck you enjoy in restaurants are farm raised, and not hunted in marshes as done for sport.
One of the more remarkable duck plates I’ve had in recent memory comes from Chef Sahm Reyes at the Hunt Room, located in the basement of The Cavalier Hotel.
Just the name along conjures up thoughts of the deliciousness that is to come: Kentucky Mule Lacquered Duck Leg, served with Flash Fried Brussels Sprouts and Crisp Fingerling Potatoes, which are drizzled with a burnt honey sauce.
The old adage that one eats with their eyes before their stomach is certainly true here: this is one perfect presentation. Sitting perched atop a mound of the vegetables is the duck, amazingly dark, golden brown, with a skin that looks impossibly crispy. Simply offsetting the monochromatic plate is a tiny bright microgreen.
I tried the sprouts first, and loved the freshness that came through the applied scorching. The crispy edges, the caramelization, the funky cabbageness, and the natural sweetness all were present and accounted for.
The potatoes were equally enjoyed; I put down the fork and ate each one with my fingers; these were fingerlings after all. They too had a crispy exterior which gave way to a decadent creamy flesh inside. They were simply seasoned with coarse salt, and that wonderful burnt honey.
But the star of the show was the duck, another crisp, slightly sweet texture, but oh, the wonderful moist meat inside. There was no gaminess, but still yet a subdued wildness that you certainly do not get with chicken or turkey. The meat had substance and a satisfying tang. It was succulent, and, when you got that perfect bite of flesh and skin, it was poultry paradise.
The Hunt Room is inside The Cavalier at 4200 Atlantic Ave. Call 757-333-6727 or visit huntroomvb.com.
A LA CARTE: COMINGS AND GOINGS IN VIRGINIA BEACH
Happy one year anniversary to Famous Uncle Al’s Tap House, located in Shadowlawn. Owned by Marc and Crystal Ford, who also own two Scotty Quixx locations in Virginia Beach, an expanded menu and extensive beer offerings on tap are highlights here.
I’ve got many favorites: I love having an occasional plant-based diet for my health, and I greatly appreciate the vegan offerings here, but my carnivorous side also appreciates the Loaded BBQ Dog, a plump Boar’s Head snap dog perfectly grilled, topped with pulled pork, barbecue sauce and classic Southern-style slaw, which I wrote about in this column in August.
Famous Uncle Al’s Tap House is at 918 Mediterranean Ave. Call 757-500-7935 or visit facebook.com/famousunclealstaphouse.
Imagine a grilled shrimp and a crabcake had a love child. A very, very tasty love child. That’s the lovin’ from the oven at the Sunday Cooking Class at Kitchen Barn on Nov. 17.
Chef Matt “MattDad” Starcher offers a stuffed shrimp interactive cooking class from 1:30 until 3:30 p.m. The $65 workshop guides folks in crafting shrimp stuffed with crabmeat, as well as cooking up mashed potatoes a seasonal vegetable.
Kitchen Barn is at 1628 Laskin Road. Call 757-422-0888 or visit kitchenbarnonline.com.
The Simply Crafted Dinner Series at Salacia Prime Seafood and Steaks continues on Nov. 19 with Iberian Coast Dinner. The limited seating event takes place with a reception at 6:30 p.m. and dinner at 7. The $80 seating includes valet, Eventbrite fee, tax and gratuity.
The Robins Cellars’ Alex Carr guides folks though wines of Spain and Portugal, paired with dishes of that region created by Hilton Virginia Beach Oceanfront Executive Chef Kyle Woodruff. A highlight is Wood Fire Roasted Pork Loin with Spanish Potatoes, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and a Bell Pepper Conserve paired with Tempranillo. Tickets are available at bit.ly/iberiancoast.
Salacia is inside the Hilton Virginia Beach Oceanfront, 3001 Atlantic Ave. Call 757-213-3473 or visit salaciavb.com.
Patrick Evans-Hylton, PatrickEvansHylton@gmail.com
