The mosque is a seat of tranquility where nature meets the divine. Surrounded by a dense foliage of coconut trees, it is a beautiful structure with bright red terracotta slopes and a courtyard made of white coral dust.
Water harvesting is one unique feature of the mosque. pics/Akhilesh Jha
Located in the south-eastern part of Kavaratti island, Ujra mosque is a treat to the eyes and a solace to the soul. The hustle and bustle of the streets give way to a strange calm as one follows the narrow lanes leading to the mosque.
Chirping birds and whispers of the breeze are the only deviations in and around the mosque.
The mosque is unique because it does not hold prayers. Devotees who throng the place are supposed to only meditate and not offer regular namaz. So the mosque has been designed accordingly.
A thing of beauty
Built on an elevated platform, the mosque does not have minarets unlike other mosques. The structure is
similar to the temples of coastal Kerala, with sloping tiled roofs to protect the interiors from the heavy
rainfall that the island gets round the year.
Semi-circular white arches connect the pillars with the roof. To help devotees meditate, there are innumerous small enclosures. These ensure privacy and at the same time, protect them from distractions in the form of people doing rounds of the mosque.
The mosque is best known to the outside world for its beautifully carved pillars and the elaborately designed verandah. Every inch of the four pillars is carved elaborately with different designs in each of the different pillars. Beautifully designed banana flowers carved out of wood and wooden chains drop down from the ceiling -- creating a wonderful effect.
Three panels have been added to the wooden ceiling to add a touch of drama and show off the effects of light and shade. Every panel has different floral carvings, with every minute detail in place. The leaves and flowers that are designed are all found locally.
Glimpses of history
"One of our forefathers was the mukri, religious caretaker of the mosque. He is the one who did the carvings. He was fascinated by the plants in the surrounding area and would carefully look at the leaves and flowers which he would then carve on the wooden pillars and ceilings. It is an example of great local craftsmanship," says Mohammed Haneefa, a distinguished artist from Kavaratti.
As opposed to popular belief, the wood on which the carvings were done was brought from the mainland and it is not driftwood. The mukri was known to be a great navigator and a sailor who had brought the wood from Mangalore -- a place the islanders frequented to get their goods. It is said that the mukri was so fond of his art that he would often carve even while he was sailing.
The mosque is believed to be built by Sheikh Mohammed Qasim, who had come to Lakshadweep in the 17th
century from the mainland to propagate rathib, a Sufi ritual. He is known to be the first Thangal of the island and was also popularly known as Waliullah. His tomb lies just in front of the mosque. And his belongings can still be found in the mosque. His successors are the mutawalli (owner) of the Ujra mosque.
Close to nature
Another unique feature of the mosque is water harvesting. There is grand well and a small tank behind the mosque. The water of the tank is known to have healing properties. So people from around the world come and take a dip hoping to get rid of different ailments. Rathib is performed after the last prayer every Monday and Friday night. The Urs of Sheikh Mohammed Qasim happens to be the most revered occasion of this mosque.
Lakshadweep has more than three hundred mosques, the highest density in the world. But the importance of the mosque in the lives of islanders throws light on strong tradition of Sufism that prevails in the islands.
Thankfully, video calls from Kavaratti are now possible. So it has become easier for me to get a have a visual feel of the mosque. I simply call Mohammed Haneefa and request him to show me glimpses of the mosque. My prayers have always been answered so far. Sheikh Qasim's blessings help me return to the island to meet friends and come close to mother nature.
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