Skip to main contentSkip to navigationSkip to navigation
Photograph of Eyemouth
Eyemouth and St Abb’s Head, Berwickshire: ‘Still mostly a working harbour.’ Photograph: Philip Dunn/Rex Shutterstock
Eyemouth and St Abb’s Head, Berwickshire: ‘Still mostly a working harbour.’ Photograph: Philip Dunn/Rex Shutterstock

Let’s move to Eyemouth and St Abb’s Head, Berwickshire

This article is more than 8 years old

With a long history of seafarers, herrings and deep-sea disasters, this little Scottish port is all about the fish

What’s going for it? In case you were in any doubt about Eyemouth’s raison d’etre, it is spelled out in gigantic blue letters on a building on the harbour: Royal National Mission To Deep Sea Fishermen. This is a seafaring place. There are boats aplenty, chandlers, fishermen who still fish, and companies making their living from the spoils. The landscape gives it away, a hummocky rugged coast with great fingers of rock that feel their way into the sea. While Eyemouth has its share of art galleries and craft centres (even the old Mission is becoming an arts centre), and surfers and brave souls licking ice-cream on its little sandy beach, this is still mostly a working harbour. On the craggy 90m cliffs at St Abb’s Head, the remnant of an ancient volcano, perch countless skuas, puffins, shags and fulmars, their own beady eyes on the fishing fleet and its booty. History here is all herrings and fish tithes and deep-sea disasters. Its alleys and vennels are soaked through with brine, and lashed by the North Sea like Captain Ahab.

The case against Small and relatively all alone. That grey stone can get you down on a dour day.

Well connected? Trains: no station, though the east coast mainline nips past; the nearest station is at Berwick-upon-Tweed, with twice-hourly trains to Edinburgh and Newcastle (both 45 mins). Driving: 15 mins to Berwick, an hour plus to Edinburgh and its airport. Almost commutable.

Schools Primaries: Coldingham, Ayton and Reston are mostly “good”, Education Scotland says, with Eyemouth mostly “good” or “very good”. Secondaries: Eyemouth High is “good” but sometimes “adequate”.

Hang out at… Fish and chips and an ice-cream parlour in one, you say? What a great invention. And Eyemouth has two: Giacopazzi’s or Mackay’s.

Where to buy Eyemouth itself sets the tone, with sober, rectangular 18th- and 19th-century terraces, town houses and cottages, most in dour grey stone, windows outlined in white and, occasionally, a daring blue. A few streets of modern suburbans complete the picture. Ayton and Reston are barely more than hamlets, while Coldingham is larger and handsomely supplied in period houses. St Abbs is a beautiful teeny fishing village of tumbledown cottages; Seaview Terrace is delightful. Detacheds and town houses, £200,000-£600,000. Semis, £115,000-£270,000. Terraces and cottages, £100,000-£240,000. Rentals: no market to speak of.

Bargain of the week Three-bedroom detached stone cottage in Coldingham; needs updating, £165,000.

From the streets

Sara ColemanThe Rialto: the warm welcome, quality coffee and homemade cakes are the best possible start to a coastal walk.”

Jamie Macdonald “A great high school: small and friendly, with strong links to the community. Uncrowded countryside, excellent surfing, our own little library. Transport links are not great.”

Live in Eyemouth and St Abb’s Head? Join the debate below.

Do you live in Tadcaster, North Yorkshire? Do you have a favourite haunt or pet hate? If so, email lets.move@theguardian.com by 3 November.

Comments (…)

Sign in or create your Guardian account to join the discussion

Most viewed

Most viewed