OUTSIDE

A good walk: Old Warden & Northill Fishponds, Bedfordshire

Queen Anne’s Summerhouse on the Shuttleworth Estate
Queen Anne’s Summerhouse on the Shuttleworth Estate
ALAMY

Twenty-four hours of solid rain over Bedfordshire had given way to a misty, moisty, mizzling day; not exactly raining, but the damp cold air pearled my face and hands with gossamer-fine moisture. The thatched eaves of Old Warden’s cottages dripped, the village road rippled with runnels of water.

In Warden Wood I turned aside over a carpet of birch leaves as soft and yellow as butter, to find Queen Anne’s Summerhouse in its lonely clearing among the pines. It’s doubtful if the queen even knew of this bold brick folly’s existence, but Sir Samuel Ongley thought it wouldn’t hurt to honour his royal liege on the grand estate he’d bought in the 1690s with the profits from the India Company.

A long green bridleway led