Only the upperworks of St Davids Cathedral tower are visible as you enter the smallest city in Britain. The first sight of the cathedral is so unexpected that it takes your breath away. You step through the arch of Porth-y-Twr gatehouse, and there, filling a hollow far below, lies this magnificent and enormous church, with the ruin of the most spectacular 14th-century Bishop’s Palace just behind.
There’s hardly a sign of the modern world, just woods and fields beyond, rising to knobbly, mountainous outcrops on the unseen coast. It’s a truly wondrous way to start this walk round one of the most spectacular sections of coastline in all of Wales.
Green lanes and country roads took us down to the southern corner of Whitesands Bay.
