As any Aberdonian given the slightest opportunity will tell you, the grey rock buildings of the Granite City sparkle whenever the sun is out — but the coastal attractions north and south of the Scotland’s third most populous city are arguably even more dazzling. From an artistic haven to a darkly fascinating prison museum, there is much to see. And with the long-awaited Aberdeen bypass officially completed in February, it’s now even easier to explore the treasures of the northeast.
Picture perfect
Sussex-born artist Joan Eardley is perhaps best known for her portraits of children in Glasgow’s slums, but she spent the rest of her time life bringing the tiny Aberdeenshire fishing village of Catterline to life through equally vivid paintings showing the dramatic beauty of its land and sea. She first visited in 1950 and lived there until her death in 1963, working in all weathers on her wild seascapes. Like Eardley, you may find yourself captivated by the ever-changing panorama across the rugged shingle bay, said to be where St Ninian landed in around 400AD.
Dram and dinner
After a walk along the Catterline coast, make time for a stop at the historic Creel Inn. Eardley also immortalised this village pub in a brilliant blue, black and white chalk and pastel drawing, a reproduction of which now hangs on the wall. Friendly staff provide a warm welcome and there is a plentiful supply of quality local seafood and whiskies on offer. Mains about £16; thecreelinn.co.uk
Catch of the day
As the UK’s biggest fishing port, Peterhead has been at the heart of the great Brexit debate amid concern over who will get to trawl Scottish waters. But about 30 years ago Scotland’s most easterly town made headlines as the site of a siege so violent the SAS had to be called in: rioting inmates at the notorious Category A Peterhead jail captured prison guard Jackie Stuart, holding him hostage on the rooftop for several days in 1987 before prime minister Margaret Thatcher ordered a rescue by special forces.
Today the prison, which closed in 2013, is an increasingly popular museum dubbed Scotland’s Alcatraz. Walking through the maze of largely unchanged buildings on an audio tour voiced by former guards gives an eerie insight into prison work. Stuart, who features in the audio, also volunteers here regularly, answering questions in person about his terrifying ordeal. Adult tickets £9; peterheadprisonmuseum.com
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Enjoy a fish supper
It would be wrong not to have fish and chips when you’re so close to Peterhead — and the chippy of choice down the coast in historic Stonehaven is The Bay. Aptly named for its location, it has netted numerous awards locally and globally over the past decade. Service is slightly gruff when I go in — we customers are not queuing the right way, apparently — but with fish this good, it’s hard to grumble. Haddock and chips £7.30; thebayfishandchips.co.uk
Hit the beach
The Aberdeenshire coast has an abundance of long, sandy bays, but none beats Ugie Beach, the start of a gorgeous 10-mile length of dune-backed walker heaven stretching north from Peterhead. Nearby Cruden Bay is popular for swimming and watersports.
To the castle
Dominating the clifftop near Stonehaven, Dunnottar Castle is a spectacular, imposing medieval ruin — as dramatic a fortress as any in Scotland. Climbing the steep steps rewards you with the chance to share the same space, albeit centuries later, with William Wallace and Mary Queen of Scots to name but two. Instead of the pet lion once kept here, today you are more likely to see seals or dolphins in the waters below. Adult tickets £7; dunnottarcastle. co.uk
Rest your head
Just north of Stonehaven, with sweeping views toward Dunnottar Castle from an elevated perch above Craigeven Bay, Dalriada Lodges are eight airy, two-bed, self-catering dwellings splashed through with a cheerful white and blue decor to match the sea views.
The lodges have a five star rating from tourist board VisitScotland, with a good-sized bath a welcome bonus after days out on the beach and coastal trails. Outside decking provides a chance for dining al fresco — though light sleepers might want to pack earplugs: you’re right beside the main railway line to Aberdeen, with trains rumbling past day and night. Two-night breaks cost from £390; seven nights from £1,365. dalriadalodges.com
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There is also the Marine Hotel in Stonehaven itself. Right on the harbour, the hotel is a cosy shelter from the inevitable North Sea storms, with a salty sea dog bar that regularly scoops top honours at the Campaign for Real Ale’s Aberdeen, Grampian and Northern Isles branch pub awards. Doubles from £110, bed and breakfast; marinehotelstonehaven.co.uk
Julia Horton was a guest of Dalriada Lodges and The Marine Hotel
