It really feels like Charles Carter was backed by divine providence.
The timing of the opening of his new restaurant, Taste of Rondo Bar & Grill, could not have been more meaningful, given the backdrop of unrest still lingering after the death of George Floyd.
Carter and his business partner Josh Howell purchased the building, the former Attucks-Brooks American Legion Post 606, in 2012. It had been the only African American legion in the city.
After trying to run it as a private club for a few years, Carter said he “would toss and turn at night” trying to figure out the best way to preserve the heritage of the building, which had long been a neighborhood gathering spot, albeit one with some drama in its past.
“This was one of the only businesses left standing when Rondo was destroyed,” Carter said, talking about the construction of I-94 that went directly through the city’s most prominent Black neighborhood in the 1950s and ‘60s.
Ultimately, the community-minded, financially savvy Carter, whose other job is working for St. Paul Catholic Cemeteries, decided the best use of the building would be a restaurant.
“I’ve never been a chef, but I’ve always loved to cook,” he said.
And though he’s not at the helm of the restaurant’s kitchen, he’s had a big influence on the elevated soul-food staples the restaurant is serving, like catfish, served blackened or fried, shrimp and grits, fried chicken, shrimp etouffee and even corn bread made from house-groud cornmeal.
Carter said the restaurant has been slammed since it opened, mostly filled with community members who are elated that the building is back in operation.
“I had a guy come in and say he wanted to cry, he was so happy we saved this building,” he said. “This is like the heartbeat of Rondo. They never want to see it go away. That’s the feedback I’ve been getting.”
There aren’t nearly enough Black-owned or Black-helmed restaurants in St. Paul, but if you’re interested in putting some of your hard-earned money in the hands of Black entrepreneurs, here are some of our favorite eateries that boast Black chefs and owners at the top.
Taste of Rondo
Since it’s so new, I’ve only sampled a few dishes, but everything we had, including the catfish, wings and etouffee, was worth returning for. I’m especially excited to give that cornbread a try. There’s also a small patio if you prefer eating outdoors.
976 Concordia Ave., St. Paul; 651-348-2615; tasteofrondostp.com
Pimento Jamaican Kitchen
Co-owner Tomme Beevas pays homage to his Jamaican heritage with jerk pork and chicken and curried dishes, served bowl-style with plantains and coconut rice and beans. Everything here is headily spiced and super delicious. The Minneapolis Eat Street location is also open.
UPDATE: Pimento Jamaican Kitchen to open downtown St. Paul location
902 W. 7th St., St. Paul or 2524 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis; pimento.com
Fasika
Honestly, I crave the vegetarian platter at this Ethiopian restaurant more than any other vegetarian dish in the cities. The stewed meats are delicious, too, but there’s nothing better than scooping up little bits of lentils, greens or other vegetables with spongy, tangy injera bread. The restaurant has been run by Ethiopian immigrants since 2001 and is still going strong. They offer takeout in addition to indoor seating at the required reduced capacity.
UPDATE: Longtime St. Paul restaurant Fasika to close
510 N. Snelling Ave., St. Paul; 651-646-4747
Afro Deli
Somali and other African favorites are on the menu at this bright, happy counter-service spot that has expanded since opening in St. Paul in 2015. Owner Abdirahman Kahin is not only a savvy businessman, but also a community-minded activist who has served 100,000 meals to people in need since the pandemic began. We are huge fans of the entire menu, but especially the chicken fantastic, a creamy, spiced curry-like dish served over rice, and the chapati wraps, which are best described as an African version of a burrito. The 7th Place and Stadium Village restaurants are open for indoor seating and takeout, but the skyway locations (Minneapolis and St. Paul) are both temporarily closed.
5 W. 7th Place, St. Paul; 651-888-2168; afrodeli.com
Tommie’s Pizza
I hadn’t heard of this tiny New-York-style pizzeria until recently, even though it opened in early 2019. When I finally got around to trying it out, I made my pizza order on the fly. That was possibly a mistake, as I ended up with two extra large pies, which are really, really extra large. In fact, my family was eating leftover pizza for most of a week. On the upside, these chewy-crusted, loaded-with-cheese-and-toppings pizzas are so good that there was no complaining. Owner Tommie Daye and his family churn out these craveable pizzas themselves, so when it gets busy, which it has been recently, expect a wait, but know it’ll be worth it.
1556 Selby Ave., St. Paul; 651-432-4743; tommiespizza.com
Karibu Grocery & Deli
I’d been meaning to drop by this cute little grocery and deli for quite some time, but then the pandemic hit, and everything was turned on its head. Now that I’ve given it a shot, I’m totally kicking myself for taking so long. African dishes like chooza chicken and suqaar steak are packed with flavor and served with some of the most addicting and gorgeous rice pilaf I’ve ever eaten, but the dish I’m still dreaming about is the wild veggie, a lush, greens-based curry of sorts that could 100 percent convince this meat-lover to convert to vegetarianism. On the other hand, Karibu also makes some American classics, and if you’re a Philly steak sandwich lover, don’t sleep on theirs.
RELATED: 5 St. Paul spots to get you started with African cuisine
719 Payne Ave., St. Paul; 651-414-0799; karibu-grocery-deli.business.site
Handsome Hog
In some ways, chef Justin Sutherland has become the face of Black chefs in the Twin Cities, mostly because of his successful run on Bravo’s “Top Chef.” But look past his celebrity status and you’ll find a guy who just really wants to feed you and knows how to do it well. The Handsome Hog is his first restaurant and the one that will likely stick around after the others have come and gone. Its new space on Cathedral Hill is gorgeous, especially the expansive, sparkly new patio, and the soul-food-based menu is top-notch from top to bottom. New items since the move include woodfire clams that might be my favorite clams ever, and pizzas loaded with Southern touches like brisket and jambalaya. If you want to eat there, plan ahead, because reservations are definitely a hot ticket right now.
RELATED: 5 great St. Paul happy hours
173 Western Ave., St. Paul; 651-219-4012; handsomehog.com
Nashville Coop
This cute food truck, which serves Nashville chicken tenders and sandwiches, is the darling of local street food right now. On the night we visited, there was a constant line of at least 10 parties waiting to order, and it was parked outside a St. Paul brewery that is only offering takeout crowlers at the moment! A few people even drove across the river after the Minneapolis truck had sold out. Is it worth the hype? Heck yes, these spicy, crispy-outside, tender-inside sandwiches are up there with some of the best in town. Check the truck’s social media pages for schedules — there is generally a St. Paul and a Minneapolis truck running every week.
UPDATE: Nashville Coop food truck sets up bricks-and-mortar shop in St. Paul
Brunson’s Pub
While chef Torrance Beavers is not an owner of this East Side establishment, he does have full creative run of the kitchen and huge admirers in owners Thomas and Molly LaFleche. Beavers has introduced St. Paul diners to flash-fried collard greens, which are bright green and so tasty, in his hoppin’ john salad, and puts out a pub-food menu that is miles above average. Honestly, even the ham and cheese sandwich is amazing.
RELATED: 5 spots for inexpensive nights out
956 Payne Ave., St. Paul; 651-447-2483; brunsonspub.com
