Democracy Dies in Darkness

New Orleans’ offbeat charms are showcased in these off-the-beaten-path destinations

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March 29, 2019 at 7:00 a.m. EDT
New Orleans is proud of its history, food and quirks. The St. Louis Cathedral, above, is the symbolic heart of the city. (Mario Tama/Getty Images)

New Orleans is a city that revels in its quirks: the voodoo boutiques, sidewalk snake charmers, haunted graveyards, magic potion brews, dodgy dive bars and little musty museums crammed with cabinets of curiosities.

It’s prime hunting ground for those with a taste for the odd, which describes my grown-up daughter and me to a T. In town for the vampy (and muddy) Voodoo Music + Arts Experience rockfest last fall, we set aside five days for offbeat exploration, glamming up and heading out in search of some real-deal N’awlins mystery and funk.